another nights “sleep” in an airport (why as backpackers do we inflict this on ourselves…) and we find ourself in the french speaking province of quebec… in the epicentre of canadian history itself and marvelling at the fortified walls of old quebec city…
after a walk around the old town, navigating the stairs, stumbling over the cobblestone streets and watching the world go by as fast as the french out of their mouths it is hard to imagine one is still in canada. a world away from the grandeaur of the rockies…yet another world away still from the rural simpleness of the north and yet miles away from the rugged isolation of newfoundland and its battered coastal shores.
so what better way to throw ourselves into the mercy of this new world than with a very quebec tradition…a visit to a “sugar shack”…
now be aware….that a sugar shack for a real quebecian is usually not a major commercial enterprise seating 500 plus people…and not most commonly done in the spectacular sunlight of a bright june day…
but a family run affair in the twilight months of winter…as the snow still carpets the ground, but the warming air means it is time for the maple water to be tapped from the local grove…
but despite all that… my quebecian friend still managed to find for us the next best deal…
and thus, still in zombie mode (after the illustrious airport sleep the evening previous) we were whisked outside the walled city, through the “real” city and into the countryside into a world of towering green maple trees (i can only imagine how stunning this place must look in autumn…a new listing for the laurie to-do list)
and ta da…there we are…
shown in to a table behind the two rowdy school grouops, to enjoy some fine live “diddly dee” music and sample some genuine quebecoise fare…
and sample we did…
as we ate our way past the point of no return… devouring any untied morsels in true starved backpacker fashion..
loving the beans in maple sauce, homemade pie and relish, dumplings and beet…
devouring the maple beer (strangely too sweet even for me!!)
and feasting till our eyes did buldge on food like we have not seen it in months…
of course, all this before we even realised the best was yet to come…
this was of course a farm who’s source of industry is the world famed syrup..
and far from the tourist fodder sugar water in good old banff… we soon discovered the real syrup and the reason for the existance of said sugar shack outside the realms of natures harvest…
when dessert rolled round our already full bellies were forcibly expanded by the sheer sight, flavour and texture of the maple syrup…as it trickled like liquid honey. golden and unflawed in colour over fresh hot crepes…there was no turning back…their was only eating…and licking the plates…
and as if our pants werent already cutting off the circulation..
as if we werent already wobbling due to overindulgence..
with the beauty of modern technology we got to try the true winter treat of quebec by making maple snow taffy…
as we stood in the crisp eve air listening to the wind whistle through the maple grove and the groan of over stuffed bellies..
we poured the sticky goodness into a trough of read

old quebec city
y made”snow” and wrestled with our sticks as we wound the sticky goodness into our very own maple lollipop…
and despite the cooled texture and consistency reminding me of my beauticians wax pot the flavour was surreal..
as it melted magically down your throat..
the perfect blend of sweetness in natures own creation…
and so last night, as i collapsed into bed, lamenting the growing rumbles from my overstuffed belly..
i can at last fully admit…
perhaps these canadians really are onto something with this whole maple syrup thing….
just a bummer i found it too late!
may your syrup be sweet wherever this finds you.
always,
l

mike and nicole get started on round one of our evening meal

mmmm.... maple taffy......




